Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
